Cycling adventures in the north of Ille-et-Vilaine

DAY 1: CYCLING ALONG THE BANKS OF THE RANCE

When we are out and about, we try to use gentle forms of transport so we have time to admire the scenery. Cycling is a pleasant way to get around and luckily there are plenty of cycle trails in the north of Ille-et-Vilaine. After hiring bikes in Combourg we begin our adventure in Saint-Suliac, classed as one of the loveliest villages in France.

Saint-Suliac : a character village classed as one of the loveliest villages in France

As soon as you get to Saint-Suliac, you see straightaway why the pretty village is among the loveliest in France.

Saint-Suliac is a typically Breton village with narrow, flower-filled streets and granite cottages with coloured shutters. Originally a fishing village, Saint-Suliac has a very pronounced history.

Inside the church which was built during the 13th and 14th centuries, there are lots of votive offerings in the form of suspended model ships which serve as a reminder of the ‘Terre-Neuvas’ fishermen who spent many long campaigns fishing the Newfoundland cod banks between the 16th and 20th centuries.

We carry on down to the harbour. Overlooking the village, the Oratoire de Grainfollet, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was built in 1894 by fishermen and their families when their prayers to see all the mariners return safe and sound were answered.

Before heading for Saint-Malo, we sit on a bench facing the Rance. The deep-sea fishermen of days gone by have made way for holiday makers – some having a leisurely swim at the beach, others windsurfing, catamaran and optimist sailing or sea kayaking at the Centre Nautique de Rance water sports centre.

The Rance Valley

Next we get back on our bikes and pick up the Vélomaritime® cycle route which passes through Saint-Suliac on its way to to Saint-Malo.

The cycle route takes us to Quinard tidal mill at Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets. The Rance is dotted with tidal mills and the one at Quinard is the largest. Built in the mid-19th century, the mill was operated by the force of the tide but it stopped being used in 1925 and today it is derelict.

We arrive in Saint-Malo via the Tour Solidor, a keep comprising 3 towers on the estuary of the Rance. Built in 1382, the Tour Solidor served as a watchtower to keep a close eye on the Rance estuary and defend Saint-Malo. Today it houses the Maritime Museum.

The opposite bank of the Rance is also interesting to visit. The scenery is wilder and we take the opportunity to stop at La Richardais for a picnic of local produce bought at a shop in a local speciality shop in Saint-Malo. The view from the Pointe du Grognet is simply magnificent!

Near La Richardais, Le Minihic-sur-Rance on the opposite bank to Saint-Suliac was also a fishing village in the past. Just as Saint-Suliac had its oratory at Grainfollet to protect its Newfoundland fishermen, Le Minihic-sur-Rance had the Oratoire de Notre Dame de la Miette. Le Minihic-sur-Rance was also one of the largest shipbuilding centres in the region.

The 45 metre long dry dock can still be seen today at the Anse de La Landriais.

After our day out in the Rance Valley, we meet the Ille-et-Rance Canal at Montreuil-sur-Ille. The Rance Valley has offered us lots of surprises with its pretty villages, rich history, beautiful river bank scenery and emerald green water.

Etang de Boulet

The Ille-et-Rance Canal is fed by channels from various lakes. The largest source lake is the Etang de Boulet. It was enlarged in 1828 and now contains 3 million cubic metres, making it the largest lake in Ille-et-Vilaine!

It is a Natura 2000 nature conservation area. It is possible to cycle around the lake on a 6.7km trail through the countryside.

The Etang de Boulet is also an ideal place for water sports. Sitting on the beach beside the lake for our picnic, we watch a group of catamaran sailors on the lake.

The Centre Nautique du Domaine de Boulet at Feins, an approved French Sailing School (École Française de Voile), offers lessons and trips aboard dinghies, catamarans, windsurfers, kayaks, paddle boards and pedalos!

Around the Etang de Boulet

We finish our cycling weekend by visiting the area around the Etang de Boulet, through Sens-de Bretagne to Vieux-Vy-sur-Couesnon and the Couesnon Valley.

The Couesnon rises in Mayenne and flows through the north of Ille-et-Vilaine into the sea at Mont-Saint-Michel.

Near Vieux-Vy-sur-Couesnon, we visit the remains of the Mines de Brais, now overgrown. Between 1879 and 1951, iron, lead, silver, zinc and pyrite ore was extracted from the hillside. A discovery trail details the history of the mines and the workers’ village. Today the former industrial site has become a natural attraction which is home to protected species like bats.